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Day 9 -12 Waitangi Forest to Helena Bay

I farewelled Original Sue who had joined me for the last night in Kerikeri and my host Victoria from the backpackers dropped me at the start of the Waitangi Forest to avoid a dangerous road walk. 

The forest road was a hive of activity with trucks passing regularly in the first 4km. 

Finally dipping off the active logging route to Te Puke Road the evidence of ancient Bush amongst falled pine felt like a very visual symbolism of Aotearoas botanical history. Right on the backblocks of New Zealands Treaty Grounds seemed all the more poignant. I reached Mt Bledisloe for lunch and the sweeping views across the Bay of Island. I also got to catch Original Jen who had gone off trail to deal with blisters and had a support crew ferrying her as needed. 

The forestry road swept through Mountain Bike tracks passed the Waitangi Golf Course and finally the Treaty Grounds. Sadly they are all fenced off so my visions of a welcoming home to Waitangi were squashed. I took a brief rest is the reception area then carried on to Pahia were I was set to kayak from the following day. 15km complete. Body feeling not bad. Achy tired feet. 

View from Mt Bledisloe over Waitangi and the Bay of Islands


To kayak to the end of the estuary and join trail would require a buddy and no lone kayaker signed up on Day 10. This meant a forced day of rest. Original Sue joined me in Pahia and we confirmed our passage on Kayak for day 11. Healthy cafe food and chatter consumed our day. My body is loving the rest. My mind on the other hand is confused with the stop/start. 

My former colleague and walking pal Teena was in town with her husband and friends for an Ocean Swim event,  so I was fortunate to offload some of my gear. I'll be seeing them next week when I stay with them in Whangarei Heads. 

Saturday Day 11 started with squalls and a tail wind set to push us down the estuary. At low tide Original Sue and I entered the water. Relieved to be using different muscles. 2.5 hours and 15km later we reached the pristine marshes. The rain hadn't eventuated and we were happy with our progress.

Original Sue and I kayaking


Now for the big hitch as the following section has been closed due to Kauri Dieback so road diversions are in place. We were aiming for Helena Bay. First we changed out of our wet clothes on the empty road, ate lunch and then started the walk. We were picked up 6min into our walk. I'm pretty sure Ross the local Contractor who at 50 years is still not a local, now has my sunglasses in his Hilux tray! A further 12mins walking saw us picked up by Wes the caretaker at the Duke of Marlborough (an institution in Russell just across the water from Pahia). Wes took us  off the trail diversion down a stunning coastal road, sharing stories of wars and Pa sites of his whanau land. We walked another 8min before our own retired Thelma and Louise former teachers/principals picked us up. They were headed for Helena Bay cafe. We couldn't believe our luck. Until we discovered Helena Bay cafe is 5km past Helena Bay. Needless to say we had delicious carrot cake and concluded we would hitch/walk back down that winding hill to Helena Bay our end destination. 

We had crossed the road to start the walk and a cheeky  thumb up 30 sec into our hike, when Stacey and Nikki picked us up in their Kia....they are seasoned TrailAngels. Did we need a ride...yes... have we got somewhere to stay...no...

Off to neighbouring Teal Bay we went. 

Next thing we are showered, beds organised and we are at the neighbours eating cheese platters watching the Women's Rugby World Cup meeting all the Teal Bay Residents. 

Teal Bay Residents welcomed us for Dinner and Womens Rugby World Cup action

The forecast was for severe rain on Day 12 so we stuck it out in their downstairs digs to shelter while Stacey and Nikki headed back to Auckland. As we walked the beach to keep the legs moving and admiring a village of 90% original beach baches, we saw all our new found friends and made a few more. Kiwi hospitality at its best. 

Helena Teal Bay welcome sign

Trail Angels Stacey and Nikki


Comments

  1. Amazing work Jo! You’re going to be ridiculously for by the end of this!! Are you passing through Queenstown… I’m home 11 Dec to 4 Jan if you are!! Also, I need a map… can you draw your route as you go?! Keep it up, you’re an inspiration! And stay safe!! Much love ❤️ Amy

    ReplyDelete
  2. I'm sad to miss you. I dont get down to your folks gate until Feb. You can see a map here for reference of where I plodding through. As for fit,right now I feel like an 80yo shuffling around! https://hiiker.app/trails/new-zealand/far-north/te-araroa-trail/map

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  3. Lovely to meet you today Jo. I hope you enjoy that well deserved shower and comfy bed tonight!

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