Arriving in deepest darkest night I saw the otherside of the city where cyclo drivers sleep on their bicycles propped awkwardly across the seat in the heat of the dusty summer night. It seemed like a capital of poverty not the capital city of Utter Pradesh the state the world over knows as the home of the Taj Mahal. Because of this I think Lucknow is a sorely missed tourist spot in India’s north. The architecture and in particular the locals are a true treasure. Enjoying a refreshing Saffron Milk drink with a sea of morning old boys I had two days in Lucknow – one of which was mostly spent at the train station trying to organise a departure. It turns out with a bit of tantrum they do put you a wait list and being a tourist quota (2 seats per class in a sleeper train) I would secure a seat in my preferred 3AC to my next stop Rishikesh. I had flagged a cyclo driver down and with no change had him wait for me as I arranged my ticket. Curiously I would see him the followin...