The capital of Kindness - Lucknow

Arriving in deepest darkest night I saw the otherside of the city where cyclo drivers sleep on their bicycles propped awkwardly across the seat in the heat of the dusty summer night. It seemed like a capital of poverty not the capital city of Utter Pradesh the state the world over knows as the home of the Taj Mahal. Because of this I think Lucknow is a sorely missed tourist spot in India’s north. The architecture and in particular the locals are a true treasure.

Enjoying a refreshing Saffron Milk drink
with a sea of morning old boys 

I had two days in Lucknow – one of which was mostly spent at the train station trying to organise a departure. It turns out with a bit of tantrum they do put you a wait list and being a tourist quota (2 seats per class in a sleeper train) I would secure a seat in my preferred 3AC to my next stop Rishikesh. I had flagged a cyclo driver down and with no change had him wait for me as I arranged my ticket. Curiously I would see him the following day 5km taking a ride and he gave me a delightful toothless smile and a wave as I zoomed past riding proper Indian lady-like pillion on a motorbike. Even in India it’s a small world.

The Palace Indian Freedom fighters including Gandi
 sought refuge from the Raj

On my second day I was collected at the hotel at 6.45am by a Professor of tourism working for spare change at the Utter Pradesh tourist office over the holidays. He was to be my guide on the Lucknow Walking Tour. For a sweet INR50 I spent the next 6 hours with Ashish being taken down back alleys of the Chowk to places where Gandiji (ji added to Gandi to show a sign of respect) and the freedom fighters would gather in a private palace and mosques. Admiring incredible Hindu-Islamic-Persian architecture at the Bara Imambara and the beautiful collision of these styles and techniques to protect the city. I was gifted breads, sweet black tea, the tantalising sweet jalebi, a sheet of silverleaf pummelled by hand, a gram of saffron from a Nepali dealer who was delighted that I had been to his home town Kathmandu and finally a set of 6 hand embroidered hankies. It was just a shame the man who made mens wedding Sherwani (jackets) didn’t gift me one of his stunning creations – despite letting me try them on!

I haven’t taken a city walking tour I don’t think since Berlin on the first day of the Big Adventure – or certainly none have made the same impression on me as these two have. I just wish the locals knew just how beautiful their city was. But whilst they don’t – it’s a tourist free zone. People weren’t particularly interested in me. No one wanted my photo – more curious about my fascination with the buildings I was gawking at!

The city is also known as the home of the Kebab but as a pescotarian this is obviously lost on me. Instead I dined at the India Hotel and would recommend it to anyone for a great hotel meal. 

I cannot recommend coming to Lucknow enough. It may look like a big dusty state capital city, but it holds great treasures that anyone who admires architecture and kindness would enjoy.

 India’s hidden treasure.