a little gem in Cambodia

I arrived in Siem Reap in the late afternoon after a hair raising journey from Phnom Penh, listening to Calvin Harris and reminiscing about LED Festival in July sharing time with friends. I guess its life threatening moments that make you think of good times or perhaps it’s the music of these moments. Either way I was the git laughing out loud at the memories of some serious dancing when the world of extreme poverty was smiling before me from their rice paddy fields.

Angkor Wat - a UNESCO site for good reason

I had decided to go to the ancient ruins of Angkor Wat for three days and wanted to secure a good tuk tuk driver for the next day but my tummy rumbled and with the guidance or nuisance of Lonely Planet I ate hands down my worst meal of the famous Cambodian dish of Amok. Note to self don’t use the “Highly Recommended” section EVER! Alas it cost me less than USD$6 including a fresh pineapple juice and afforded me a wicker chaired view of the tourist mecca to the temples of the Khmer people.

I arranged for a Tuk Tuk to take me to the ruins for the “small tour” for day one for USD$14. The Driver named Pol was a devious piece of work and convinced a German guy at the ticket office to come with us also charging him $15 for the day. Ingo (the German guy) was travelling overland on his motor bike from Germany to NZ and was not allowed to take his own bike into the massive grounds of the ruins (approx. 50km). So on we went firstly to Angkor Wat the picturesque grand temple of the Khmers, built in the mid-12^th century.

It was apparent that Ingo was tired of taking photos of ruins and it tainted my day a little as I ended up enjoying his company more than the sights that I beheld. Alas I had two more days to indulge in revisiting and expanding my search. And due to pashimina’s not passing as covering of shoulders at Angkor Wat I had to return to see the inner sanctum of the great ruin. Well worth the effort I can report.

Ta Som - good example of
tree destruction of the
Temples of Angkor Wat

I had met an Irishman over breakfast and Kenny was to become my dinner date over the coming evenings laughing at my hungangry indecisiveness….which those who have travelled with me know so well (and love endearingly I hope!).  We shared tales of our travels and our days discoveries – he was on a moto (motorbike taxi for $10) while I was on a tuk tuk and he climbed the trees of the ruins and fished with the locals while I taught begging children how to count to ten in Maori.

Over the course of the next two days I undertook the Grand Tour and sunrise at Angkor Wat with a new Tuk Tuk Driver and a fine Tuk Tuk emblazoned with Rolls Royce. I have included the details in another post as its more a diary or a guide for visitors than those I guess read my blog (my Mum, Fede, and siblings or at least they are the ones that comment – dig dig!)  – but it had some of the pictures if you’re not my FB friend.

After three days at the temple and satisified I had seen what I wanted to at Angkor I tucked into another helping of Banana Pancakes (many know I am habitual and this is one habit I was sad to break leaving too early to sample them again) Rolls Royce and I headed to the Floating Villages 15km out of town. I had been warned several times this is now a massive scam but seeing it is really rather interesting. It proved to be a continuation of the Sports Bra Assault Course of Cambodia, finally reaching a toll road where I had to pay $2 to enter – and use for a mere 50 meters before turning into haggleville to get on a boat to see the villages. 

When I arrived there were 5 people gathered and I asked to join them to make a group of 6. When I asked officials if it was each $15 they said no you are three groups. Me solo, 2 girls and 3 in a family. No amount of negotiation seemed to budge them so the other 5 left.

After 3 more failed tag along efforts I joined two Swedish girls for $15 for an “hour and a half” tour. We had a huge boat to ourselves which obviously was not the intention but it is all to sustain the people apparently and not the environment. They clearly have a few things to learn here in the floating villages. Not least how to save their children – 12% of all children do not survive past the age of 5. And with life expectancy at 54 years these are very very impoverished people. We speed out through the villages on a sleepy Sunday. Allowing us a view into family life that would not be seen for the 6 other days in the week and with it being the start of Chinese New Year it was an excuse to party so family gatherings seemed to be raving in red.  

The Floating Villages of Lake Tonle Sap

We paused in the great lake of Tonle Sap, with endlessness like Lake Ontario or an ocean, our skipper told us of the fishing done deep in the waters and how it expands to be the largest lake in Asia during the monsoon. He asked us if we would like to visit the Orphanage. Feeling pressure to give is always difficult with no accessible escape so we declined. Instead we went to the crocodile farm across the water way from the Orphanage. That’s right they farm crocs – and have to use the snakes to feed them. The Skipper had earlier offered for us to swim in the murky lake…thankfully I had not packed my bikini for the day!

It was very enlightening seeing how these people live and if volunteering was something I wanted to do this is the spot I think would benefit from it immensely. With 80,000 people living in the villages and with such dire stats for life expectancy in the modern day it makes you really think “how can I make a difference”.  I have the distinct feeling this will be a very strong theme in my Big Adventure…so watch out the hippy dippy in poo pants may just go native.

Siem Reap afforded me a look into the great jewel of the Khmer people and the desperation of the modern society. I look forward to visiting again someday. And would definitely recommend intrepid parents to take their children here to explore and be enlightened as to how others live. Who wouldn’t want to climb trees over Ancient ruins for a school holiday with the folks!