Climbing a Buda Hill and bathing in Pest water

I arrived in Budapest, Hungary after a sleeper train from Krakow. The train was a delight and I would recommend this route to anyone...and it cost me £18 (booked two weeks in advance from London). The rain seemed to be following me still and the train station the hostel was close to was NOT the one I arrived into! I was such a grump on arrival. Week one was really rather tough with rubbish weather and missing home. Thank you  for all your supportive messages this week I have needed them!

After taking a load off I went for a walk along the Danube River. The river runs from Germany through the city of Budapest right out to the Black Sea. The river divides the two former cities of Buda and Pest (said Pecht). Buda is the hilly posh part of town whilst Pest is the flat hub of the city. I was staying in Pest of course!

Hungarian Parliament Buildings , Pest

The river walk was a nice opportunity to see the city and cross the river a couple of times to take a better vantage point of the pretty Pest buildings including the Parliament, Basilica and Central Market where I later ended up feasting on fruit. Budapest seemed to offer a chilled out atmosphere and I was able to take it easy on my first day. 

My second day was much the same with a structured free walking tour around the city explaining the sites I had seen the day before. Hungary had partnered Germany in the two world wars and finally became occupied by their Allies in the final years of the WWII. The occupation by the Germans was followed by the “liberation” by the Russians. The Russians of course bought communism with them for the ride and the country changed dramatically.

At the time of “liberation” the Russians erected a statue of Lady Liberty on the hills of Buda overlooking the river. She holds up an olive branch between her hands and is the picture of modernity. Such is the depth of commi sympathy at the time of the end of the Cold War suggestions were made to remove the symbol of communism to the locals, instead they shroud the statue for 3 days in a white cloth and revealed Lady Liberty as if new. My tour guide was in no way convinced and everyday sees the statue as a bitter reminder of the past.

The changing periods of rule meant most of their central cities most beautiful buildings were badly damaged. The course of the reconstruction is clear today on the Pest side particularly as they started on the riverside and are working their way back. It makes for an expensive river walk for drinks and food but once you pass the workers you know you have hit real Pest. Amongst some of the beautifully reconstructed buildings of Art Noveau (and any period with Neo-prefixing it) are some ghastly communist style slap ups. Built quickly and with poor quality it makes for patchwork city.

Life is hard in Pest Water

Now Budapest is not just known for its buildings and river views but the natural springs which draw in the masses to help cure their ails. I was no exception…I wanted a spa treatment Ottoman style. I headed for the famous city park baths (Szechenyi Bath) – mostly as this was the one I had seen in pictures from friends and was easily accessible AND not the naked version or dividing the sexes which in truth isn’t a problem for me on my own. heyho! The baths have several rooms and a large outdoor section where men play chess and old couples conoodle. I ran into some of the inter-railing gang I had first met in Berlin which was nice and made for a fun time of people watching and comparing travel tales.

I left Budapest feeling fresh and happy after a wee run around the island of Katherine. Runners high maybe but really it’s a beautiful city where your pennies go the distance.

Thanks for the MonoPod workmates....this is my first play and takes in the Buda by Night