Silk, Technology & Temples in Karnataka – Part 2 - Hampi Templetastic

Hampi – home of Temples

After an overnight bus and a half an hour local bus I arrived in the temple town of Hampi. After collecting my thoughts (at 6am a tough ask – those who have bused with me know!) I found a room beside the river in the simple lodgings of Kiran Guest house. Any night spent on a night bus results in me lazing around with little more than a sunset excursion to take in my new environment. As I sat along the Ghats of the Tungabhadra River washing people bathe, and wash their clothes, I met Jo – a Liverpudlian (favourite word EVER!). She literally picked me up and took me to dinner in the beautiful surrounds of the Mango Tree, a terraced restaurant in the groves at the edge of town, overlooking the river and offering sweeping views of the valley.

Lakshmi the temple elephant
after his morning bath

Hampi Township ruins

I enjoyed Hampi on foot starting at the river Ghat to see the famed elephant Lakshmi from the Virupaksha temple being bathed by his keeper and pre-empting its steps into the central temple of Virupaksha where I met several families curiously taking in the foreigner during their school holidays pilgrimage. I took a few steps to the side of the entrance and climbed Hemakuta Hill onto a huge rock – spanning the entire length of the massive Virupaksha temple below and admired the sweeping views of the valley from a height. Not before 6 sisters tried to marry me off to their brother, an awkward, tall ken doll haired 28 year old. The entire family thought it was a grand idea. Alas I declined saying I had to marry a New Zealander as it was part of my culture…I lie A LOT about my marital status so DO NOT QUOTE ME on this point please!  I enjoyed stepping out to see  two Ganesh, and the Gopura Krishna temples all enjoyed in solitary as the crowds were not yet in session.

Hampi's Royal Centre Ruins

I made my way out of town on a bicycle early before the sun started to beat incessantly! It was a really lovely way to see the temples. I headed directly to the Royal Centre and enjoyed firstly the Queens Baths then the entire Kings Royal enclosure to myself. The huge expanse that this encompassed literally had me whirling on the top of temples. I felt that Sunday morning like a little girl in a full skirt enjoying the freedoms of life. I finally arrived at the Kings Temple and was guided around by the lady sweeper and shown specifically all the carvings of the Kama Sutra, for a small fee of course.

The Elephant Stables - a delightful hide out

I forked out the R250 for the Vittala temples which included a delightful stables for the royal elephants. It was here as my contact lense played up I had one of my great travel experiences! I had hidden myself from the Sunday holiday makers all keen for a picture with the foreign girl in one of the elephant enclosures, each of which was ornately decorated. As I took respite in the shade, to focus my eyes by reading my book a security guard approached. He looked at me curiously while I explained I had a sore eye. He then came back with the cleaning lady who insisted on blowing on my eye, delivering short blows. I relaxed and went with it as I have learnt that sometimes it’s just easier to roll with it - afterall it is part of an eye test to have air pressurised onto your eye. My contact eventually was corrected and after a pause and them both returning from a interlude to work duties, I showed them my contact lense by moving it in my other eye. Wow what a reaction. Their curiousity level was simply elephantial in size.

Hampi Bazaar as it is today.
Life will no longer exist along it
in aims to have a UNESCO rating

I ended my cycle tour by exploring the town Bazaar, already mostly depleted after 2011’s Government Bulldozers attacks on the people and their homes. I have detailed in my blog already the sad demise of the Hampi Bazaar and the loss of life along its joyously ancient ruins, all in the name of a UNESCO rating. I hope you can take a moment to sign your name to help the displaced people of Hampi in their relocation from the rock they have been provided to a place where sewage, water and power are resources they can utilise.

Hampi - the otherside of the river

So that is how you get rice....

On my final day I enjoyed a backseat view of the other side of the river with Liverpudlian Jo and another couple of rouge travellers Yoga Mike and Eli the set designing English Rose. We climbed up to Hanuman Temple (Monkey Mountain amongst the tourists) believed to be the spot where the Hindu Monkey God was born , The elevation afforded great vistas of the Hampi valley whilst leaping barefoot from shade to shade. Finally getting ourselves lost amongst rice paddy fields, the local farmers, who with my Big Adventure curiousity finally completed the rice loop by showing me the final grains harvested. The generosity of the farmers was a delight and as the midday sun stated to catch up on us all we missed our turn off, ran out of petrol and had a  prolonged journey back.  Shout out to Liverpudlian Jo for her driving efforts for the day..winner!

We spent our last evening with one of the families which were to be displaced over the coming couple of days. It had been the theme of our eating over the last few days to frequent those who were about to have their livelihoods taken from them, attempting to give them all the business we could with the few rupees it cost us for each meal. On each occasion we were shown warm hospitality, tinted with sadness. And saw their graciousness when a middle aged mentally disturbed American ranted and raved in their  restaurants and stores. (Hampi is on the tourist trail from Goa so brings many mainstream and hippy tourists to its haven).

I was to spend nearly a week in Hampi and as the mercury rose amongst the rocks I realised I had acclimatised with it. Hampi has given me back my travelling spirit. I am indebted to its beautiful landscape, gentle people and intricate temples for its hospitality. My thoughts go to all those displaced people today – some three weeks later. I wish them well and hope that they are able to find a comfortable new home and that tourists continue to enjoy the New Hampi in the same way we enjoyed the New Bagan – away from the tourist traps and amongst the locals.