Beyond Everest

Nepal offered me respite from the heat and people of the intensity only found in India. For this I am grateful and humbled.

Politics

Jovial Police during a Bandh

I arrived in Kathmandu in the middle of a strike (Bandh). The country is currently in the throes of designing its constitution with a tumultuous government with Maosts, Nepali Congress Party and Communists all unable to gain a majority to rule the country since the fall of the monarch in 2002 when the young prince killed all members of his family and then took his own life.

My first impression of the capital was of a march of people blocking the roads and not letting our tourist bus through. Most people had got off the bus by this stage so I was with only a few other tourists (mostly Indians), I poked my head out the window after some time (its was 8am, I had not slept on the 16 hour bus trip so again not my best hour!) with my camera in hand. People started to move around the bus and they ushered us on…I guess the impression that I was Press was something that kept the crowd moving. I have since heard some horror stories about life on buses during Bandh so I now count my blessings.

The Bandhs continued during the month I was in Nepal which meant limited services available outside of Kathmandu – which I timed to perfection coincidentally. On our return from the Trek the embassy alerted “the country is in a vacuum” which was new terminology to me. As it goes I was lucky with my timing. I saw peaceful protests and only small skirmishes in the provinces when I was driving through.

Kathmandu

I had the great pleasure of enjoying Kathmandu from the point of view of an Ex-patriot in the company of my friend from the trek Pip. And as such my insights were local rather than touristic in many respects…a great experience for me at this point in my travels! We dined at nice restaurants (with change from a tenner on all occasions!) and lounged in beautiful gardens, we went to a farmers market for all the do gooder ex-pats with Welsh cheese, cured meats, fresh vegetables and delicious breads. It’s hardly surprising then that my host was from Melbourne.

 So if you call into Kathmandu I can (by recommendation long before I got to Nepal) highly recommend the Falafels and Salads at OR2K, the Tacos at Electric Buddha, the large delicious pizza (albeit with slow service and said to be the favourite of Prince before he killed his family) at Fire and Ice,  the Fish’n’Chips and the delicious Earl Grey Infused Gin Ice Teas from Brian’s Grill and his brilliant stand at the 1905 Saturday morning Farmers market and the Pastas at La Dolce Vita….can you tell I was sick of Tea house food and curries! In fact I would suppose that Brian’s Grill will be THE place to visit in Kathmandu in the next Lonely Planet as it is a hidden gem outside of the main drag but on the 9^th floor with 360 panoramic views of the city. It’s an absolutely brilliant place to enjoy a night with a group and hosted so warmly by American Brian and his friendly team. Clearly I was immersed in the ex-pat culture. Days of Dhal Bhat were long gone for me!

Ok the food recommendations are now done, I will get on with the touristy stuff!

Bodhanath – a suburb of Kathmandu – or so it seems now - is the home of the biggest Stupa/Gompa in the world (apparently). It is by no means as impressive as the golden Shweddegon Pagoda in Yangon, Myanmar but it is very impressive none the less. We entered from the busy commuter road to join the masses walking clockwise around its edge. As we explored we ended up on the Gompa itself continuing the clockwise trance. Jimmy my mate from the trek was at my side and we had a really wonderful time as the sun set and the clouds dimmed taking in the light, and peacefulness of the devout. It was here we learnt about the famous art of the Thangka with many specialist schools surrounding the Gompa.

Kathmandu Darbur Square – I had first strolled through here during a strike and no one asked us for money on my second visit we slipped in through a market and enjoyed the chaos of the tourist hub of Kathmandu and the exemplary Newari architecture. I appreciate the efforts to save the cultural treasure but it really bites when the only people who pay are those with white skin. Local Asian tourists are seemingly exempt.

Patan Darbur Sqaure - A NPR200 ride from Kathmandu’s tourist centre I was charged a further NRP500 to take a walk down the street in Darbur Square had me very disgruntled. Long term travel makes you less interested in the architecture that you are told is exemplified in a certain town centre but looks awfully similar to the last place you visited where the crumbing facades are not cared for let alone appreciated for their aesthetic beauty. But this is world heritage stamped so its a reason to pay - apparently. As such I snuck into the Patan Museum without paying – I wacked my head and it hurt for days as penance! – see I am honest on this blog. The best thing in the museum was this photo of classic Nepali Colonialism. I did stop off at a couple of fair trade craft stores on my way back to the city but was a little frustrated that I wasn’t leaving for home from Kathmandu (only for shopping purposes!) to buy all the lovely things!

Garden of Dreams – a stunning haven from the chaos of Asia…and by Asia I really do mean Asia! Just off the busy Thamel area this Colonial style garden was saved by passers by as locals set about destroying the buildings. It houses a plush bar and a lovely restaurant for long lunches with new friends. And beautiful gardens suitable for sweethearts and school children and a tired traveller with a good book. NRP160 entry is well worth it!

Thamel - the tourist hub - ok so I did a fair bit of shopping but what I want to express by this point is that if you are long term travelling and need to buy stuff for trekking or indeed just travelling – it really is all right here. From MC Hammer pants to North Face Packs, renting of sleeping bags and buying kids puffer jackets for tenner. I spent £130 and was entirely kitted from boots, socks, trousers, tee shirt, down puffer jacket, unused poncho (Result!), water purifying tablets, rented -30 sleeping bag, chocolate, apricots, nuts, dried soup, a head torch and a yak scarf. Hotels and restaurants are all easily negotiated here. Its like a friendlier, mountain Koh San Road without the crime. 

Chitwan National Park

I took a bumpy 4 hour local bus to Chitwan, transferring to another smaller local bus to Suraha at 7pm and was guided by a small man to a guest house.

Chitwan is where my sister met her husband so my thoughts were often with them and their growing family as I took to the Park to see what I could see.

I can recommend the half day canoe and walking safari, followed by the jeep safari. For those who want to see the highlights of the park. I saw more on the canoe with very eager bird watches as guides than any other time. The river is very low at the moment – the day temperatures were in the early 40’s so most of the animals were taking shelter even in the cool of the morning light. As we stepped off the canoe and took to the park on foot, almost as soon as we walked into the jungle we came across some monkeys and in my naivety I didn’t appreciate the spectacle as they really were the highlight of the morning. We walked in thick brush following the markings of rhinos and deer – spotting a few deer and wild boar and the daunting paw marks of a tiger marking his territory. I had two young guides – one which only had one eye (no I didn’t ask!) one walked ahead while the other followed closely behind me. Both only armed with a stick and a bird watching book….They schooled me on zigzagging from Rhinos, climbing trees from Elephants and stopping dead and stearing a tiger in the eye. As for the Sloth Bear….RUN! Despite all of this I felt very safe. And for the priviledge of walking in nature amongst animals of such enormity I can but HIGHLY RECOMMEND the experience.

The jeep safari afforded us a further excursion into the park and we spotted 5 Rhinos in different poses – from sleeping (looking like a big grey round rock), bathing, dipping in and out of the water (leaving funny colour lines on the Rhino), drinking and eating. In doing so I guess I saw its daily cycle – well save the shitting and shagging but I’ll save that for a David Attenbourgh episode. We also went to a Crocodile & Turtle breeding facility, with a resident Owl and some rather small crocs in their youth. It was a great day out, and despite not seeing a tiger I was satisfied when a chicken crossed the road.

The following day after much encouragement I took an Elephant Safari. I admire the might of an Elephant and have been enamoured with my sister Fiona’s love of the Elle. For as little as a £1 you could bathe with the Elephants but that was not for me. Instead I sat with 4 people and a mahout as we walked again through the national park in search of wild life. We came across a large open plain and here we along with about 20 other Elephants and their paying customers walked amongst a rhino eating in green pastures. It was amazing to be perched above the Rhino on an animal he walks freely beside. Nature at its best (and exploitative too I guess).

View from my elephant

Finally to show me the much needed human element of the the Chitwan National Park – my Chitwan guide (it’s the low season so he was with me on all my outings!) Prem Lama took me to a traditional stick dance performance. Now I know when you come to NZ you go to Rotorua for a bit of Maori culture and those who holiday in the Pacific islands always come home with a photo wriggling their hips at a crowd participation moment in a cultural performance but I haven’t really gone in for that in the past. Things didn’t change in Chitwan much to Prem Lama’s disappointment – the crowd of Koreans where right up for the stick dancing and the humour was enough to have me laughing even now…the stick dancing by the local men was brilliant – and for a couple of pounds a definite good night out in the jungle.

The entire time in Chitwan cost me £50 including dinner at KC’s Restaurant and Bar…the old varisty haunt my Brother met his wife, in a national park in Nepal where my sister met her husband. With a bottle of whisky and the internet who knows where my life could have led me over those three days ….

Lumbini

The birth place of Buddha. I small town 50km from  the border (but not another Border town like Kakavitta – close to Darjeeling and a bit of a hell hole! Email me for details!). It’s a pretty simple spot that have brought Buddhist from around the world to take in the serenity.

I cycled to Maya Devi a beautiful white modernist block around the ruins of a town which it is believed, Buddhas mother Maya Devi stopped to bath in the cool waters before giving birth to her son. It was a particularly peaceful place and I couldn’t help but think about the serenity Buddhist demonstrate compared to the chaos of the Orthodox Russian Catholics I met in Bethlehem at Jesus Christs birth place. There would have been around 7 of us in the entire Temple including two security staff and two travelling Japanese Monks. We each took our turn to gaze in wonder at the simple site and take a breath here.

Outside the temple I made my way to sit amongst the prayer flags and chanting monks. There were plenty of people gathered outside the Temple to pray, and it gave me great peace to be amongst them. I cycled some more around the large grounds which takes in temples from several countries giving homage to Lord Buddha. I personally didn’t need to see each nationalities devotions to Buddha – as its fair to say I am templed out! I made instead for the border. For India and the overnight journey that would take me to Varanasi to see the most holy River and the sight of death pyres.

What a difference a day makes.