Skip to main content

Heathrow Hell

Snow Blizzard in East London
This is a difficult post to relive. But to express the frustration of this experience I think may be both cathartic and a reminder in times of frustration that things aren't as bad as these 5 days of no travel....

 With my Cairo bound flights due to depart at 2230 on the 18th of December I had a London South Bank photographic course booked and a few 'pre-holiday odd jobs' to arrange before I flew out.  I was set to join a tour group at 6pm on the 19th and my flights allowed for an afternoon of market exporing in Cairo before the 16 day tour. The tour had been arranged by two of my favourite school friend travellers Andrew and Graham and I'd be twin sharing with my work mate RenĂ©. Making for a merry band of four for the Xmas and New Year celebrations taking in the ancient sights of Egypt and Jordan.

On the morning of the 18th snow was settled outside my window. But nothing to write home about. Simon from my camera course called to postpone my class which I wasn't disappointed about, this allowed a bit more time for packing and for said 'odd jobs'. As I waited for an early morning appointment in the snow at Roman Road Market, it got me thinking that packing for summer on a winters day would be tough. I had to think warm thoughts as the still calm of snow settled outside. HOT PIES! HOT PIES! 

On my return from the market I checked on flights at Heathrow and delays were starting to occur. Shortly after noon a 90 minute snow blizzard struck London and all flights were cancelled. I turned to twitter for answers as no news channels or the BAA website could help me out. The BAA twitter account @HeathrowAirport on the other hand was being very forthcoming with information. We were told that flights after 1700 may fly so I was hopeful. I left the house shortly after 6pm hopeful the tubes were working ok. My friends were set to fly on Sunday so with a night ahead of them all (Andrew and G on Austrian Air and RenĂ© on Egypt Air) , I was to keep them posted on my progress. 

I arrived at Heathrow at about 8.30. From the Tube terminal I set off for Terminal 3 only to be delayed by a back log of travellers in the underground throughfare. After advancing ten metres past the Heathrow Express entrance to Terminal 3 in over 40 minutes I asked a girl coming back from the terminal how long it would take to get to the Terminal, She responded '45 minutes and you're going no where the terminal is closed and police are handing out airline phone numbers - go home'. I refered to twitter and this was confirmed by the @HeathrowAirport team. I turned around and called Andrew. I would join them at the Hounslow Travel Lodge for the night. 

Andrew and G met me along the Hounslow Central strip and we slipped in for a curry as I hadn't eaten all day having eaten the house out. We feasted on a delicious north Indian meal and were all reminded of home by the delicious flavours.  As we walked back to the hotel Andrew did one of the best lying down photo shots of all time (photo's on request).This was definitely a highlight of the otherwise disappointing day. I called Turkish Airlines and they told me the next flight available was the 24th of December....not good enough and I needed to know what would happen with the boys. I could happily stay in London with family for Xmas - but they didn't have that luxury. I really hoped insrance would come to the party also. 

Sunday 19th December 4am Andrew & G's flight was at 6.30am. There had been no further snow fall overnight. We took a cab (unable to book AddisonLee due to the conditions and them not being able to promise to be there on time!) to terminal 1 and I saw the boys to their line. The entrance to the terminal saw a littering of bodies, survival blankets abound and people growning, snoring and comforting one another. I headed over to Terminal 3 to take up at the Turkish Airline desk. I found a large gang of Turks holding court, being told there would be a rep on at 5.30 am. In the Terminal there was a group of friendly northern blokes holding up the Pakistani airlines checkin desk like any local lock-in. When Met Police called past they simply asked for the fellas to move on before staff arrived which they dutifully did (ever hopefully) around 5am. A couple had set up a tent along side us cornarding off their area. The sight was both horrifying and unifying. And truth be told starting to get smelly (please note this was only 24 hours after the airport had closed). I met an American grad Student delayed by her Russian visa by an hour which delayed her from the connecting to Istanbul and a Bucharest man enroute to Miami for Christmas with friends with a flat phone and a serious need for fresh air and a break! He was niether here nor there and the cost to get to the US (not just Miami) was going to be over $2000USD and not much less to get the short distance home to Bucharest to a home he was clearly trying to leave for a 'warm Christmas' holiday. I gave him my phone charger and looked after his bags. 

By 5am there was no sign of flights leaving and @HeathrowAirport announced that flights would not be landing at Heathrow. With the arrival at 6am of the first Turkish Airlines man he confirmed there was one plane on the tarmac which would leave that day. But when and who got on that flight would be determined first on those booked on THAT flight then the next would be those on the 1100 on the 18th. Leaving me very much in the cold there was a 1600 flight ahead of me. At this time Andrew and G arrived having been told their flights were cancelled and to go home. For them not getting to Cairo that night meant they would cancel their entire trip. They could do it another day and not miss a day of the tour. Whilst I had barely had a holiday in 2010 and had to use my holidays before the 31st of December. We took the decision to head back to town and figure it out on the phone. Those living at Heathrow had more of an urgent need to travel than I ever did. And I reasoned my holiday is not as urgent as a wedding guest, christmas holiday maker or a person trying to make it home to their invalided family at this festive time. 

As I waited on the phone for 3 hours for no further information  but a possible seat on the 25th we were now waiting to see if RenĂ© would make it out at 5pm on his flight. Forgetting insurance he bought some online at 12 that day as flights were starting to depart . At 6pm I had a call from Ren saying they had canned the flight. So we agreed to meet a couple of friends to commiserate in Soho. We commiserated until 3am - making our Monday of phone calls and Insurance enquiries hard work. 

Monday 20th December - Andrew and G decided to abandon their holiday. Andrew would try and get the insurance claims sorted whilst G came down with a horrid flu and was pleased to not be travelling with it. 
InsureandGo assured me I could claim for full Abandonment costs but with a holiday awaiting me of any description I was eager to go
RenĂ©'s insurance company would not honour his insurance policy given he knew of the 'severe weather warnings' and like me he wanted to get out to see the Wonders of World instead of wallowing in London in a snowy wintery season. 
Turkish Airlines was now telling me I had a flight available on the 26th! 
We had a call from our colleague and friend who had wrangled a flight with BA to LA also scoring a seat on the plane for her SF bound boss....talk about scoring a Christmas bonus! She tried to help us but the cost of getting new flights to Cairo for either of us would be extortionate relative to a few days missed on a felluca on the nile (with no loo).

Tuesday 21st December - deciding that the phones were a waste of our time and with Turkish Airlines now saying they would not honour my ticket because I bought it from Opodo. Opodo has an 0844 number to contact, so I sent an email to Opodo to cover off my claim process if required. Paper trails are important afterall. RenĂ© was fully commited to getting on a plane so we headed out to Heathrow. I had thought it would be a formality for me to book on another flight so didn't bother with my pack and needed to wash my jeans etc anyway. 

On arrival at the airport we became very aware the situation was rather dire. Queues of people were gathered outside Terminal 3 which we were both travelling from. We moved towards entrance D and discovered it was due to a security alert that people were standing outdoors not because they had been evicted. Although tents were erected for tea and coffee so maybe this was the case. We blagged our way into the terminal. René for Egypt Air and I for turkish. As I reached the counter they asked where my bags were. I said I didn't bother as their phone staff had told me the "next available flight was the 26th if I was lucky". There was a chance I could have got on the 1640 if I had my bags. At this time René bounded over with news that he had scored an airport hotel. The Turkish Airline lady told us this was because his fellow passengers had kicked off and police had to assist those displaced since Saturday who had had no support from Egypt Air. So René set off for the airport hotel and I with the new found hope that I would get a flight on the 22nd if I came early. There would only be 2 flights instead of three but it was likely I would get a seat. The 7am was cancelled as I was at the desk so the 11am was my next chance. I went home to pack us a lunch for the next days wait and wash my clothes. I should also mention I took the posh Heathrow Express back to town. So fast AND free for us stranded folk - despite a guard running after me!

Wednesday 22nd December.
I set off at 7am for Heathrow on the tube from Mile End. I had packed lunch for RenĂ© and I and I was pretty sure this was the last time I was going to go to the airport without a confirmed ticket in my hand. I arrived shortly after 9am with a queue at least 120 people long for the 11am flight. No order was given for standby passengers or those on the flight so with mere moments to spare a Turkish Airlines rep asked people to arrange themselves into queues of confirmed 11am fliers and those who were delayed. A handful of confused standby folk stood to the side, eventually gathering under the stairs. After the group cleared we hurried to the Turkish Airlines desk where I was given a seat on the next flight at 1625. Thats right I was told I had a seat. No paper was exchanged but a word of promise. The first in days. 

At this time RenĂ© arrived with tales of  hardship from his fellow Egypt Air passengers - displaced since Saturday but with no home to go to. RenĂ© had hosted the party and was a sight for sore eyes. We shared some lunch with a couple of travellers one a young home builder heading home to Jerusalem to be with her family. Unfortunately she didn't get on the same flight as me so went home to East London with no chance to make it to the foot border in Jordan by Friday lunchtime to get home for Christmas day, and another Beruit bound husband and his 6 month pregnant wife delayed in London from their Canadian departure. We then queued side by side in Terminal 3 with Turkish Airways and Egypt Air next to each other making it alot easier. As I got a seat on the 1625 to Istanbul I was so unbelieving. RenĂ© on the other hand was despondent. He would not fly until the next day.

Alas I was off. I could finally wish people a happy Christmas and start to enjoy the journey.  Delayed in London by a mere half an hour I was off off and away. My Beiruti mate and his Preggers wife were onboard which filled me with joy and he kept on hugging me with relief that we were going somewhere. I was pegged between a lovely Turkish lad and a sweet landscaping SouthAfrican Grandad John. John and I nattered for a couple of hours about our experiences and they both shared their dinners with me which was nice as they had no Vege meals for this standby traveller. I could have been indignant about being delayed but I was just pleased to be enroute. 

At Istanbul Ataturk International we arrived at Transit desk to chaos. African women delayed in London going beserk and small men quietly calling flights to escort travellers on to connecting flights. I had been too excited to have a flight to Istanbul I hadn't considered being stuck in Turkey and not having the connecting boarding pass....rookie! One of the quiet men were calling for Capetown - I shouted for John and he was partnered with this man and escourted away. 5 minutes later it became clear 10 others didn't have the same luck - stuck out from their connecting, this delay would see them lucky if they got home for Christmas. Chaos at the desk continued as they tried to palm me off to the Egypt Air folks who were unable to help me. I went back to the Manager and he asked me to sit in the transit lounge for half an hour. Here I got a text from my Mum reminding me how lucky I was to get away and to be enroute to a holiday of a life time. Mums can be so realistic at times! The Manager arranged for me to get a 11am flight and an airport hotel. Mum's can also bring good luck!

Because I have a NZ Passport I was welcomed in by the young Immigration officer with a smile and a warm Hello, whilst my fellow passengers were being kept out or made to pay for tourist visas. We took a bus to the airport hotel and as it was 1am I was exhausted. Only in the morning as we drove back to the airport did I realise we had slept in Asian Istanbul. What a result. I love that city! 

My flight to Cairo was seemless. What was to follow continued my Heathrow misfortune but showed glimmers of the good in man in the most amazing places of the world.

The experience on the whole made me realise I am fortunate to be a New Zealand passport holder, fortunate to have the love of my family  and friendds (so I don't have to sepnd Christmas with them) and the waywithall to afford travelling this beautiful world. Despite delays, bad customer service and showing some rather ugly emotions. Lesson learnt Snow Angels.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

My My Myanmar

I have been touched, pinched, squeezed and had my back rubbed as I was sick. Myanmar is one phenomenal place which I have so much hope for. Hope for democracy, hope for development and hope for conservation, all in a gradual process without losing its authenticity. I have felt safe, with my large amounts of cash (remember no ATM’s so budgeting became a real past time of all travellers not just the “budget” ones) and in pilgrimaging crowds, in villages and on rickety hill top roads, travelling solo or in a crowd. Not once did I fear for my personal safety or that of my belongings. I had to stop myself on the first day from being so travel weary and closed. I had to trust. I had to open up and Myanmar may well have taught me one of my greatest lessons on my Big Adventure. captive in Myanmar There were moments of democratic desire, like an aged village monk carrying a bamboo log who stopped me to ask “Do you know Aung San?” to which I replied quietly knowing it was a very c

2022 Challenge - Te Araroa trail

Catching up on this blog after a 4 year hiatus.  I arrived back in New Zealand in 2015 fresh off a Rugby World Cup final win and with excitement to settle in my homeland. Life in Auckland has been consumed by working in Consulting and home ownership, spending time with family and friends and enjoying the gifts the New Zealand has to offer.  I've observed I have a pattern of 4 year cycles. There was Valencia in 2007, then the Big Adventure in 2011, Moving home in 2015, and In 2019/2020 I renovated my house and it wasn't quite the challenge that scratched the adventure itch enough. The pandemic has challenged us all and after long periods of isolation, working at home, lockdowns and the heartbreaking reality that motherhood might not be my path in life and with new found reduced restrictions something had to change After winter beached on the couch I have decided to see my own country Aotearoa New Zelaand.  This October I will be taking on the Te Araroa Trail, 3,000km walk from C

Day 16 - 23 Everyone needs good friends

The great Ocean Beach escape allowed me a day to rest while Teena worked, her daughter studied for exams and husband went on a free-dive course. I also had the pleasure of watching my trail friends come off the gnarly hike I had ahead of me. Feet up on the deck I waved them through. The Bach hospitality was wonderful. Relaxed and restorative.  The following morning Teena dropped me back to Oceans Beach with a day bag (hooray) to conquer the Bream Head Track. A beast I had been eyeing every step of Oceans beach two days prior. It was a slow exposed grassy ascent followed by a full on climb with ropes and frantic footing. So grateful not to have more weight on my back, to make these climbs simplified and sticks to steady the climb. I slipped on a tree root on a narrow section reminding me to concentrate. The views from the glimpses between the forest canopy stretched north to my yesterdays and south to my tomorrows long hike and Marsden Pt and Bream Bay. I was on the hunt for the lost ye