Day 13-15 Helena Bay Ridge Walk to Oceans Beach

Having farewelled the community of Teal Bay, Sue and I set off on the Helena Bay Ridge walk through the El Chaparal gate and along private land. The forest was a nice change to the beaches and forest roads I had walked this far. Through nīkau and tōtara and brushing through our forever ferns. The Ridge was steep in parts and small glimpses of the coastline and the surrounding forest came through the canopy. Sue soldiered on as I dawdelled uphill, which meant she missed a spectacular face plant up the hills as I miscalculated my footing. Howling with laughter I twisted onto my back and slide 3 metres back down hill so I could bush bash around the mudslide that had seen me kiss it! Initiation of Te Araroa complete. 

The path lead onto farm trails sparingly marked with Orange markers but with plenty of curious cattle in adjacent paddocks. Leading onto a quiet and partially shaded gravel road twisting down the Valley. I was given a hitch with 2km to the main road to avoid a rouge bull, who no local seemed to want to reroute. 

Here I met Sue and quickly we were joined by 3 other TA hikers. We lucked in with a hitch from Barney and Fiona coming home from work in Whangarei for the day and their neighbour following, took the others. Barney was so kind to drop us off at the Whananaki Camp ground reception. This helped us avoid the roadwalking because of a trail closure due to new landowners. It was a night to recharge,refuel (at the local dairy, fish and chips followed by a fruju  - never tasted so good). Back at the campground I had a run in with a fellow hiker who had ignored the trail notes and taken the trail anyway. He then shared that Kauri dieback was not real. My tired angry fire let loose. When the camping ground manager came out with a DOC Kauri Dieback  brochure and attempted to explain the impact to her farm I knew my fire was fair. The hiker walked out of the campground not paying for any use of facilities. There is always one. 

The following day had us negoitating a tidal estuary to reach the longest foot bridge in the Southern Hemisphere across the Whananaki estuary. 

We started as a group of 5 women, all scattering as we walked the beautiful Whananaki Coastal walk into Sandy Bay. The surf was up and all focus was on the sea.  I took a small rest at the exit to town where local hobby farmer Sandy picked me up. She wanted me to come home to her Eco retreat but I had momentum and wanted to get to Ngunguru. She was going to shear her 8 hobby sheep so I suggested she could put the wool out for a koha at the farm gate. We hikers love wool for avoiding blisters. I hhaven't used a plasterer on my feet for days opting instead for wool to treat hotspots.  This thrilled her. 

The next hitch I had with Harold to the start of the Ngunguru bike trail connection to town. Harold was 64 unvaccinated and 'couldn't find a job'. I didn't think anything of his chainsaw and weed wacker in the boot with my bag until much later...he was off to do gardening at his daughters in exchange for a meal. 

The Ngunguru bike trail took me 6km through much needed shady trails. When I emerged on the road a local stopped to pick me up as she was heading to the dairy. I was grateful as the roadwalking is very jarring on the body. I spent the afternoon in Ngunguru resting by the water, eating Fish and Chips for lunch and buying a packet of Snakes I would later discovered must have been on the shelf for years!

Local Trail Angel, James,  collected us from a nearby jetty and took us to his beautiful Eco Lodge on his dingy. There were 8 of us for the night. Shaking off The Rouge from the day before who also hitched a ride with James. We settled into dorm bedding made from reclaimed Kauri amongst dense bush. James talked us through the plan for the following day. A slog starting at 6.30am to meet the tides. Grateful for the rest and purpose built hikers retreat, I'd gladly go back. 

James Eco Retreat - Ngunguru

Dawn saw us underway with a steep walk out the driveway and gentle walk through the 4WD tracks of the local Iwi. We had paid for the privilege of being on this private land and were grateful for the shortcut!

Misty morning start

 First we took on the river crossing at Horahora a tidal river which meant I took off my shoes to try and keep my feet dry. Across farmland up to Pātaua North Road. As we shattered across the road the local Roadworks team were in action. The Final car in the fleet had a special making for us which bought a smile yo my face. These road section are so tough on your legs, so these moments are special.

Reaching Pātaua we walked across the footbridge onto the Southside of town. I imagine this place heaves in Summer with the baches dotting the street. More road walking through 'land back' signs to the  Taiharuru River estuary. A 3km tidal stretch which we very nearly miscalculated. Sue had stuck with me as I navigate the mudflats on tender feet around mangroves and oyster beds. Determined to have one day of wet feet we pushed on past Tidesong (a reknowned Trail Angel) and through waist height water reached a bar before crossing into the final muddy mangroves trek.  

Taiharuru River - Estuary Crossing

Sue Shattered

Here is when I realised I had lost a camp sandal....oh no! We crawled to the top of a hill with Sue, Martje and Simone to have lunch. Having attempted to clean our muddy feet in the long grass we soldiered on to the road and up up up up Mt Kauri. 

A stunning vista north and south with the entire days walk spread either side as far as the eye could see. I scorched myself on the lookout deck for about 30mins while I waited on the turning tide ahead. I had already done  21km through rivers, mangroves, roads and mountains...I had a solid 10km ahead to get to camp. How, how I questioned. 

Northern view from Mt Kauri

South of Mt Kauri

Down the steps of Mt Kauri (and the tin knees setting in) onto a local road past iwi farm land where fences consisted of posts and no rails. Cattle ran free and teenagers churhood as they bumped past in uncertified cars. I finally arrived on the North end of Oceans Beach as tide was turning. Sue saw me safely across the river running into the sea which surfers hit the waves. It took about 20 mins to put my shoes and socks on. The sand was everywhere and my energy so low. 

I frogmarched that beach of stunning soft sand. Cursing and listening to the Wild podcast with Beau Miles about his adventure and felt they understood my pain. I walked up to the Bluff, surely we don't need to walk these rocks I thought. I walked back from the Bluff unsure of my exit from the beach. Back to the Bluff. No way I can get round those rocks. Finally finding a path through the dunes avoiding birds nesting and replanting. A local pointed me to the camp. I set up my tent - the last of the day to arrive. So many familiar faces of Trail family. Jack and Gaelle from London, Tania and Brent from Tauranga, Sue from Papamoa, Martje from Germany, Simone from SA, Jamie from Scotland, Eva from Germany, Karen from Netherlands and many more my tired brain can't recall.  I got a text from Teena my hiking pal and former colleague who was just 6 mins away at her Bach. Its fair to say my tent was down in a jiffy and bag packed. I had an escape from the trail....and I was glad to take it! 31.5km in all that terrain was epic....and with crispy skin from the sun I needed a break.