Day 1-4 Cape Reinga to Ahipara

After shaking of the first flu I have had in 2 years. The date was set, the bus north was booked for the 19th of October.  

I scrubbed the floors of the house - ready for tenants, put out my rubbish bin and threw my bag in my sister in laws car and made for Akoranga bus stop. It was 7.25am and I had been up since 5. Today was going to be a long day! 

I sat with Linde my pal from a recent River Crossing course all the way to Kaitaia. Tempering our nerves with chatter. 

I signed the Te Araroa Registration at the Kaitaia information centre and jumped into my prearranged shuttle with Paul up to the Cape. I shared the journey with Neil who was bound for Spirits Bay while Fredirik was joining me on the Te Araroa. 

Paul had hosted and driven hundreds to The Cape over the last 15 years including welcoming Geoff Capple on his maiden voyage so he had some great yarns which helped distract me from the reality lying ahead.

The start. Cape Reinga

It was a brilliant overcast day with views from the Lighthouse.

Fredi and I set off on the Te Paki stream trail at 4.27pm racing to clear some rocks before high tide, on the sweeping beach below The Cape. We snuck through just in time! We then walked through the stunning red tinged sandstone cliffs before dipping into Twilight Beach on twilight. We popped on our headtorches with 2+km to go, we were fast running out of light. Thankfully the feral dogs weren't out that night. 

Looking from Cape Reinga to Twilight Beach

Fredi noticed the stairs at the end of the beach just before 9pm and we traversed to find a campsite and it's resident possum Archibald. We both pitched our tents without hassle and made for bed in quick session. 

Morning bought a bitten tent for a fellow hiker by hungry Archibald and the excitement of hitting 90 Mile Beach. We first cleared a low-lying area of hebies and manuka before rounding a ridge and our only sight of East and West coasts. Farewelling Cape Reinga, headphones in,low tide and we were off. We got pretty wet feet walking through the many streams, so I changed my socks with 5km to go. 26km of beach complete we reached Monganui Bluff....with a bit of confusion on the campsite, hidden on the south side of the Bluff blind to us south bounders (SOBO) all desperate for the beach and the day to be done. I was nearly on a peninsula to camp before spotting the Campsite roof line for the kitchen. Thanks to the local Iwi campsite we had toilets and a great sheltered set up. And thankfully missed the local scammer who takes campers fees for himself not the iwi! Wayne's reputation proceeded him. 

Day 3 was going to be a slog. Fredi and I set off together, with tender feet although no Blisters for me, but an increasing tight left hip and calf muscles that needed a good stretch. The beach seemed endless in the haze. The beginnings of Labour Weekend holiday makers were coming in on their 4WD trucks to head for the Bluff where we had just left. 90 Mile beach is treated as a road but given its variable bredth due to the tide people behave slightly less roadworthy. It made pretty wild experience to have 5 4WDs racing toward you. 

I pulled into Hukatere Lodge having completed 30km, blisters starting to appear on my toes. The set up at Hukatere was excellent. I grabbed a bunk for the night, on account of the bed I was aiming for in Ahipara being taken by Labour Weekend holiday makers! I drunk 2 cups of tea and chatted to the local school teacher and our now very established crew of 7. Fredirik (Netherlands), Fleur (France) , Jennifer, Sue, Grace and Roshana (Aotearoa). 

Long line fishing off the beach. If you walk on the seaside of the car you'll get knee-lined by the fishing line!

Day 4. I waited for the rain to pass before setting off. Which meant I missed a turn off to use a road and ended up trudging solo down the beach for 31 km with the turning high tide! The first 10km were brutal and I ended up calling family for some cheerleaders. Thanks Ben and Kate for the 'you can do it' chant. Your chanting is now engraved in my brain. I met a few long line fishermen as I passed them by and took a lunch stop with a family long lining. Hiluxes are great for pack leaning! As I got to 19km a lady joined me having seen my mates ahead and asked me about the logistics and motivation. It helped distract me as Ahipara my goal for the day was the end of a large sweeping J shape bay so you could see your destination for about 20km making for a fairly demoralising day. 

Through soft sand I pushed up into town, Sue met me on a bike enroute to get fish and chips so I pitched my tent, grabbed my change of clothes and joined The Originals as we had now named ourselves.  It was a great way to finish this leg before we all split up on our solo journeys to towns, forests and physios. 

90 Mile Beach done 

4 days hiking

101 km 

Sore hip

Blisters on either side of my left ankle. 

Tight calves